Artificial grass installation depends on what lies beneath it. The base, the infill, the drainage path, and the finishing details determine whether your turf will last, drain properly, look finished, and perform as intended. This guide explains the materials and techniques that separate a durable installation from one that fails, settles unevenly, holds odor, or lifts at the seams. Whether you are installing turf in a backyard, a pet area, around a pool, or on a patio, understanding these foundations will help you ask the right questions and verify the work being done.
El Paso's sandy desert soil, hard caliche layer, and intense summer heat create specific challenges. The ground drains quickly in some yards and holds water in others. July through September monsoons can bring sudden downpours. Spring dust storms and winter temperature swings stress both the turf and the base beneath it. A properly prepared base, the right infill, and correct drainage design are not optional extras; they are the difference between a yard that performs for years and one that requires costly repair or removal.
Turf Infill Options: Silica, Coated Sand, Zeolite and Envirofill
Infill is the granular material spread across the turf surface after installation. It serves multiple purposes: it props up the grass fibres so they stand upright and look natural, it protects the turf backing from ultraviolet light, it adds weight to keep the turf in place, and it helps move water through the drainage system. The most common infill is silica sand, a basic ballast that is affordable and effective for most residential yards. Silica sand is angular, neutral in colour, and does its job well, though it can be slightly abrasive underfoot and does not address pet odor on its own.
Coated sand is silica sand that has been rounded and often coloured to match the turf fibre or to look more like natural soil. The rounded grains are gentler on bare feet and feel less industrial than sharp silica. Zeolite is a porous mineral that absorbs and neutralizes ammonia and other odors, making it popular for pet turf and dog runs. Antimicrobial and cooling coated infills, sold under brand names such as Envirofill, combine rounded sand with additives designed to reduce bacterial growth and lower surface temperature in high heat. These specialty infills cost more than basic silica but can improve performance in specific applications. Crumb rubber (recycled tire material) is standard for sports fields and playgrounds where impact absorption matters, but it is not recommended for residential yards or pet areas due to heat retention and odor concerns in El Paso's climate. Ask your installer which infill is specified for your project and why it suits your use.
How Much Infill Artificial Grass Needs, and Why
Infill quantity is specified in pounds per square foot (psf), a measurement that tells you how much material is actually in the turf. This number is critical because too little infill is one of the most common shortcuts taken by cheap installations. Insufficient infill causes the fibres to lay flat, the backing to degrade from sun exposure, the turf to shift under foot traffic, and drainage to fail because the infill cannot hold its position or move water effectively. Typical residential turf is specified between 1.5 and 2.5 pounds per square foot, depending on the fibre type, pile height, and intended use. Pet turf and play areas often require 2.0 to 3.0 psf or more because they endure heavier wear and need better drainage and odor control. Putting greens may use less infill to maintain a firmer surface.
The right amount of infill is determined by the turf product specifications, not by a one-size-fits-all rule. When you get a quote, ask for the infill amount in writing as part of your specification. If an installer cannot or will not provide this number, it is a red flag. A properly specified installation will list the product name, the face weight, the pile height, and the infill type and pounds per square foot. Without this detail, you have no way to verify that the work matches the quote or that corners have not been cut after the crew leaves.
What to Put Under Artificial Grass for Drainage
The path to good drainage starts with what you remove and what you build underneath. First, any existing lawn, dead sod, or old turf and its root system must be removed and hauled away. Roots and organic matter trap water and break down over time, causing the turf above to settle and develop low spots. Once the old lawn is gone, the ground is excavated to the depth required by your base specification, typically three to four inches. On slopes, the excavation is graded so water runs away from the house and any pool or structure. A weed barrier (landscape fabric) is sometimes laid at this stage to prevent weeds from growing up through the base, though its necessity depends on site conditions and local practice.
Next comes the free-draining base, usually decomposed granite or crushed base rock. This material is spread in layers and compacted firmly with a plate compactor to create a stable, level surface. An optional draining underlay or pad is then installed over the compacted base. This pad serves several purposes: it provides additional cushioning for comfort and safety in play areas, it improves drainage in pet zones where urine concentration is high, and it protects hard surfaces like concrete patios or balconies from direct turf contact. On concrete or balconies, never glue turf flat to the slab; instead, use a draining underlay with edge drainage so water does not pool beneath the turf. Finally, the turf itself is laid over this prepared system. Each layer has a purpose, and skipping steps or using the wrong materials leads to failure.
Base Prep on El Paso Soil: Excavation, Base Rock and Compaction
El Paso soil is predominantly sandy desert soil with a hard caliche layer (calcium carbonate) at varying depths. Caliche is a natural cement that forms in arid climates and can block water movement, forcing it to sit on top of the soil or move sideways toward foundations. When you install artificial grass, the base preparation must account for this reality. If the yard drains well naturally, excavation may be shallow. If the soil is clay-heavy, compacted, or sits above caliche, excavation and grading become critical to prevent water from pooling under the turf, which causes odor, promotes mold, and destabilizes the base.
Proper base prep follows a sequence: excavate to remove the old lawn and roots, grade the bottom of the excavation so it slopes away from the house and any pool or patio, remove or break up caliche if it blocks drainage, lay a weed barrier if appropriate, and spread the base material (decomposed granite or crushed rock) in lifts of two to three inches. Each lift is compacted firmly with a plate compactor. An uncompacted base settles over time, creating dips where water pools and where pet odor concentrates. In El Paso's heat and with the monsoon rains that arrive in late summer, poor compaction fails quickly. If your yard has a genuine water problem (standing water, a high water table, or drainage that flows toward the house), that issue must be resolved before turf is installed. We will not install turf on a failing base, and neither should any installer you hire. If drainage cannot be fixed, we will tell you so and discuss alternatives with you.
Artificial Grass Drainage and Underlay: Perforated vs Fully Permeable
Artificial grass is not waterproof; it is water-permeable. Water moves through the turf fibre and backing, down through the infill, and into the base below. The rate at which this happens is called the drainage rate, usually expressed in gallons per hour per square foot (gal/hr/sf). A turf with a perforated backing drains faster than one with a fully permeable backing, but both are designed to shed water quickly under normal conditions. The difference matters when the real test comes: a heavy pet area where urine concentration is high, or a monsoon downpour that drops an inch of rain in minutes. A fully permeable backing and a fast-draining base are essential for these scenarios.
However, fast-draining turf installed over a slow base fails. If water cannot move through the base, it backs up under the turf, creating wet spots, odor problems, and a soft, unstable surface. This is why base preparation and drainage work together. An underlay or pad placed over the compacted base improves drainage and provides cushioning for pet areas, playgrounds, and patios. On hard surfaces like concrete or balconies, the underlay becomes mandatory because water cannot drain into the concrete; instead, it must flow to the edges and away from the structure. Ask your installer for the turf's drainage rate in writing and confirm that the base depth and material support that rate. A specification that names only the turf product without drainage details is incomplete.
Seams, Nails, Edging and Power Brooming
The details that finish an installation reveal whether the work was done by someone who understands the craft. Seams are the joints where two pieces of turf meet. A proper seam is joined with seam tape and a flexible adhesive applied to the backing, with the grain and pile direction aligned so the seam is nearly invisible and the fibres flow naturally across it. Seams are the most common failure point in cheap installs; if the tape is laid poorly, the adhesive is inadequate, or the grain is misaligned, the seam will lift, separate, or become visible as the turf ages and the adhesive breaks down. Nails or staples are driven through the perimeter and at seams to hold the turf in place during installation and to anchor it permanently. Spacing matters; nails that are too far apart allow the turf to shift.
Edging is the perimeter detail that keeps the turf from unraveling and gives the yard a finished appearance. Bender board (flexible wood edging) is secured with nails or stakes and creates a clean border. The turf is cut tight to this edge. Around pavers and cool decks, the turf is cut so it sits flush without buckling or creating a gap. After all seams are sealed and edges are set, the turf is power broomed, a process that combs the fibres upright, spreads the infill evenly, and gives the yard a uniform, natural look. A visible seam, a lifted or frayed edge, or turf that lies flat and matted tells you the finishing work was rushed or skipped. These details separate a professional installation from a temporary one.
What a Written Turf Spec Should Include
Before you hire any turf installation company, request a written specification for your project. This document is your protection and your proof. It should list every material and method that will be used. A complete spec includes the turf product name and fibre type (for example, polyethylene or nylon), the face weight (total weight of fibre per square yard), the pile height (length of the grass blade), the backing type and drainage rate (for example, fully permeable, perforated, or drainage rate in gal/hr/sf), the infill type and pounds per square foot, the base depth and material (for example, four inches of compacted crushed rock), the base compaction method, whether a weed barrier is included, the seam method (seam tape and adhesive), the edging type, cleanup and haul-off of old lawn and debris, and the workmanship warranty period.
This specification is not a sales brochure; it is a contract detail that holds the installer accountable. If the spec is vague, incomplete, or missing the infill amount, ask for clarification in writing. If the installer resists providing these details or says "it doesn't matter," walk away. El Paso Turf Installation provides a written spec for every project, fully insured and committed to the details that matter. For a free on-site measurement and a detailed estimate, contact us or call (915) 348-3704. Visit our pricing page to understand the ranges for different applications, and explore our service pages to learn how these principles apply to residential yards, pet turf and dog runs, pool surrounds, and other applications.